This is a question I often ponder, especially since I address the topic of appropriate attire in the workplace in many different industries.

How much of a woman’s personality, femininity and/or sex appeal should she project—and how?

I’ve noticed that many smart women don’t pay much attention to their attire at all, thinking it’s unimportant because brains are enough. However, they aren’t: Studies indicate the entire package that’s important—and visuals count most in making a first impression.

So where does looking sexy fit in and can it help a woman succeed? That depends.

Looking provocative—wearing your skirt too short, your top too low and your clothes too tight—can be an unwelcome distraction and a downright detriment in most industries. The degree to which depends upon the company culture. I know. I know. There are always exceptions: The woman who flaunts her assets but is none-the-less such a high producer that her inappropriate dress is not addressed—until the day it is.

Maybe the company is sold or a new president comes in or the critical buzz gets too loud. And then she either leaves, changes or just stays without advancing…I can’t tell you how many stories like this I’ve heard.

Blatant sexiness is usually bad for your business. But the opposite—wearing shapeless suits and boring tops, blah shoes and the like—can also hold you back.

I believe there’s a way to project smarts and sex appeal and come out a winner. You have to be very subtle about it, but I’ve seen it done on a daily basis, both here and especially in France, where I lived and worked for several years. (And wrote the book French Chic: How To Dress Like A Frenchwoman.)

Many successful French female executives exude this winning combination in a purely unconscious way: It’s in the cut of their skirt, rather than its length, in the fit of a shirt, not the depth of its neckline, in the curve of a jacket and the list goes on. Here are some ideas I’ve gleaned from my experiences here and elsewhere:

• Shaped silhouettes—Curvy jackets, pants that skim the body without hugging it, pencil skirts or even newer and easier to wear, skirts that are fitted at the waist and hips and end with flare. Nothing oversized or too tight.

• Professional tailoring—Great fit can make inexpensive clothes look costly, while ill-fitting pieces, no matter how high their price tag, can look cheap. Have your clothing altered so that it fits you like it was made for you.

• Touchable fabrics—Select fabrics that not only feel good, but look like they do: cashmere blends, soft wools and cottons, buttery leathers and suedes. Even if the cut of the item is conservative, the fabric will add quality, sensuality and femininity.

• Neutral colors: They’re the cornerstone of a stylish professional wardrobe…the perfect background for special accessories and touches of color that can add individuality and personality to a look.

• Feminine footwear: Both quality and cut count here. Select styles that are flattering and feminine, never clunky or heavy looking. Wear your shoes or boots with sheer nude or opaque black or brown hosiery.

• Understated makeup—No woman looks as good without makeup as with it, when it’s properly applied. Strive for some definition, evening skin tone and shading, but don’t overdo it.

• Sexy lingerie—Keep it under wraps and think of it as your secret weapon. It will affect the way you move and walk and keep you in touch with your femaleness.

I just saw the film, The Devil Wore Prada and thoroughly enjoyed it. I know, I know. I’ve read all the articles about how the clothes are too contrived and how no one working at a magazine looks like that, but hold on a second folks, we’re talking about the movies.

This is the Hollywood version of a New York institution. And, having been there, done that, I can attest to the fact that there was more than a grain of truth in the follow-the-leader style at Runway magazine (supposedly a fictional version of Vogue).

During my years as a fashion/beauty director, I did a stint at Conde Nast (the parent company of Vogue, Glamour, Allure and others). While I was not at the afore-mentioned titles, we did use the same elevators and attend the same fashion shows and, frankly, you could tell at a glance who worked where. The advertising industry might take credit for the concept of branding, but magazine staffers live it.

This brings me to what I felt was the underlying fashion message of the movie: To get ahead, dress appropriately—and well—for your job and lifestyle.

Studies indicate that good-looking people get paid more and climb higher than plainer folks. And style and grooming—and the confidence and improved communications skills that looking great gives you—are essential components of attractiveness. The right image can validate you, just as it did with heroine Andy Sachs at Runway.

However, dressing like a fashionista only works if you’re in a certain world—at a fashion magazine, an advertising or design agency or another creative enterprise, although a divorce attorney might want to choose designer clothing to indicate success. You first have to figure out the impression you want to make and then, what’s suitable for your industry, company, location and/or lifestyle. Here are a few guidelines:

• Pay attention to your company dress code, which will probably spell out not only what business professional and business casual mean, but also what you can and cannot wear where.

• Follow your boss’s lead if the dress code is limited or non-existent.

• Dress more formally when meeting a client for the first time. For some, this might mean a business suit (and tie, for men), for others, an unmatched outfit (a jacket over shirt or sweater set with skirt or pants for women; a sport jacket, dress shirt and trousers, with or without a tie, for men).

• Be guided by your clients’ attire in subsequent meetings. If they are dressed casually, you might want to forego a suit for a more relaxed outfit. However, make sure whatever you have on is a notch or two higher in quality than your client.

• Consider what you’ll be doing during the day. If you’re an industrial engineer who’s crawling around wires, jeans and a polo shirt might be most suitable, even if you’re doing so for a bank. A litigator has to be very judicious about clothing choices for court—anything too trendy might be badly received by a jury.

• Stay away from provocative clothing. Whether working in the front or back office, baring a little too much can undermine a woman’s power.

• Avoid sloppy, soiled or frayed clothing and scuffed, down-at-the-heels shoes. Whatever you put on should be cared for, clean, neat and pressed—no matter what your title.
Of course, clothes don’t make the man/woman, but they do help to tell the world who he/she is. And now, when snap judgments are the rule, you don’t have a second chance to send the right instant message.

What’s great about a sale? You might be able to find that fabulous—but formerly prohibitively expensive—outfit at 50 percent off, a few items to freshen what you’ve been wearing for years and/or that great party piece.

In short, everything is great, except the process. Purchasing on sale is no easy feat, you have to be a black belt shopper. Here are some tips:
• Make a list. That suit you’ve had your eye on, the cashmere sweaters that were advertised or replacements for your black, gray and camel pants…note the item(s) or category(ies) on a list, which will be your starting point.
• Wear the item you want to build on. Looking for an interesting cardigan to team with those plaid pants? Wear the pants (or at least, bring them along to try on) so that you can see how the outfit will look. Guessing about it might take more time than it’s worth—and certainly going back to return the item is a time-waster.
• Arrive when the store opens. You’ll find the best selection and the fewest shoppers, so you might have the sales racks all to yourself.
• Buy only items that work with something you already own. An “orphan” usually stays that way. Whatever you buy should be easy to integrate into your wardrobe.
• Shop your list first. Once you’ve gotten what you need, then you can look at impulse items. Remember, even bargains become expensive if you don’t wear them.

Any woman who has glanced at a fashion magazine or visited a clothing store can’t help but notice that this year, it’s all about long sweaters, belts, leggings, short skirts and stovepipe pants with an 80s vibe. (Men’s clothing doesn’t seem to change much, although suits are somewhat slimmer and most casual outfits suit weekends, rather than the office.)

So what do you do if you want to look stylish and modern, but the current trends don’t suit your tastes, shape or job? These are very valid considerations because they, along with your company culture and what you’ll be doing on a particular day, determine your dress. 

You have to adapt the trends to your look. Here’s how:

• Long sweaters: If they overwhelm your small frame, select styles that are not voluminous and not too long, just a bit lengthier than what you might otherwise wear. If they make you look heavy, choose a lightweight model that’s long and lean and wear it with tapered pants. A long cardigan is also an option because you can wear it open. Styles without cabling or stripes will also be most flattering.

• Belts: Wide belts are ubiquitous, but that doesn’t mean they look good on everyone. If you have a high or thick waist, wear a belt around your hips, unless your hips are very wide (then forego a belt). If the fabric or knit you’re belting is bulky, try a thinner belt.

• Leggings: For the most part, and unless you work in a very creative field, leggings have no place in the office and particularly not on anyone over 30. The only way you can make them work is to wear them with boots, so the footless part is hidden.

• Mini-skirts: This is another look for the very young and in an industry that’s very creative. If this is not your profile, simply wear your skirts a little shorter than usual–top or middle of the knee is the optimum length for most women. Avoid mid-calf lengths and modernize the slightly shorter look with dark opaque pantyhose.

• Stovepipe legs: A silhouette that works best if you have narrow hips, you’re better off avoiding it. Opt instead for straight-legged bottoms, more flattering (yet still very now) than wide or bell-bottom ones. Top them with a longer sweater, belted or not, and sleek low boots, either flat or heeled, for an attractive casual look that works in most situations.

Did you know that style is an acquired taste? Nope, it’s not genetic, although there are people who seem to defy this truth with an effortless chic. In this article, I’m going to share how you can become one of the latter.

Interestingly, I developed this approach 20 years ago, while living in France—noticing on a daily basis how stylish every Parisian looked—and have personally followed it ever since. In the late 80s, I incorporated part of it in a book called French Chic, which, unfortunately, is out of print (but can be ordered at Amazon.com).

But you don’t need the book to learn the secrets, because I’m going to cover them here.

The French have a stealth style weapon, called maman, or mom. She’s not only the sartorial role model for her daughter(s), but also the catalyst for instilling a physical confidence in her offspring, whether male or female, which has little to do with appearance.

So the question then becomes: How to have style if you don’t have a role model? Try these 5 ideas on for size:

1. Identify your image. Clothing allows us to project any image we want. You simply have to decide how you want to be perceived, then dress for it. What you do, what you like and what looks good on you are your major considerations. One exercise is to select an adjective that sums up the impact you want to make. For a financial advisor, the word might be, “wealthy” (How much credibility would a “poor” expert have?) Then look for clothing that conveys this attitude.

2. Imitate a stylish person. One that exudes the image you seek. This person could be the most successful person in your organization, someone you’ve met at an event or even a stranger you glimpsed in passing. Perhaps he or she is on the cover of your favorite business publication or even a model wearing a great look in a fashion magazine.

3. Emphasize your assets. Select silhouettes, items and colors that not only work with your image, but also express your personality and play up your best features. Don’t forget that “great” bodies come in all sizes and shapes. I know how difficult this can be when clothes are shown only on tall, skinny girls and young, hunky men. But sometimes believing in yourself takes work. Why not turn an imperfection into a uniquely personal distinction? Or, strive to get into the best shape you can? Physical activity helps put me in touch with my body so that I feel better about it, while improving the way I move and carry myself in my clothes.

4. Stand tall. When your posture is perfect, your clothing looks better, whatever your height or size. So walk with your head up, shoulders back, ribcage raised and stomach in. I find that wearing comfortable shoes also helps.

5. Befriend a tailor. You can’t be stylish if your clothing doesn’t fit, no matter how expensive the garments. Pieces that are too large undermine your power; those that are too small do the same and are uncomfortable to boot. The most modern silhouette for both men and women is slimmer and more shaped and this usually takes tailoring.

There is one more secret, but you may have to work up to it. I call it take a risk. Stretch your limits a bit and try a touch that will set your look apart and give it punch. For a man who usually sticks with a French blue shirt and striped tie, it could be a pattern-on-pattern look (striped shirt with a dot tie, for example). For a woman who tends to under accessorize, it could be a wonderful brooch or necklace or eye-catching shoes. Or, an entire outfit that’s slightly, just slightly, unexpected.

Can you dress provocatively at work and still look professional? This is a timely question, especially now, during the dog days of summer when all you probably want to wear is as little as possible. In three words, resist the impulse. Save those flip-flops and flimsy tank tops for extra-curricular activities. Your in-office attire should clearly announce that the only business you’re there for is company business. The more skin you show, the less professional you look. Any clothing that bares your décolletage, thighs, midriff and tummy (and, in some professions, toes) is too sexy for most business environments. Just how much skin you can show depends on what you do and where you do it. An editor at a fashion magazine is able to get away with more daring ensembles than an attorney or banker. And someone without client contact can probably dress more casually than a sales executive. To make your first impression a favorable one, you need to package yourself as a professional. Here are some pointers:

• Take your fashion cues from the most successful woman at your company.
• Sure, wear a tank top to work, but in the office, top it with a lightweight cardigan or jacket.
• Linen sheaths or cotton knit wrap dresses that can be dressed up or down with accessories are good warm-weather staples.
• If sandals are simply not corporate enough in your office, select sling backs instead.
• Stockings are more professional than bare legs. For those days when you can’t bear the thought of them, try spray-on leg makeup.
• Wear the proper undergarments with your clothes: a bra with a smooth finish under T-shirts, a racer-back bra if your bra straps could slip out from a sleeveless top, a flesh-colored slip or camisole under a filmy skirt or top and a tank top under a low V-neck or button-front top.

Prince Charles and Camilla flew into New York this week and were met with indifference, for the most part. The media, however, seemed fixated on Camilla’s look, described as a “fashion disaster” by the New York Post. And indeed, the ensembles that were pictured were either inappropriate and/or unflattering, but not horrible.

The point is that Camilla can’t seem to surmount the matronly first impression she made to the public. So even though her look has improved 2000 percent, she’s still described as frumpy and dumpy. First impressions are extremely powerful—psychological research indicates that the first information people get about a person influences the way they process later information—so it’s essential to get it right from the start. Camilla is just one case in point.

This is why I put together a short checklist of strategies for creating a first impression that will help you start off with an advantage:

• Appropriateness: Dress in looks that are appropriate to the occasion and the customs of those you are with. For example, don’t wear a bright fuchsia suit to a memorial service (as Camilla did), because in America, we wear somber colors in those situations. If you don’t know what is appropriate, ask an organizer of the event or send me a query.
• Quality: Purchase less and wear it more so you look and feel comfortable in your clothing. For example, classics outlive trendy items. Experiment with wearing the same great things in different ways.
• Perfection: Wear clothes that flatter your figure and visually perfect it. For example, a drapey silhouette in a fluffy fabric will add weight. (Why didn’t her dresser tell Camilla this when she chose a blue velvet frock with chiffon inlays?)
• Investment: Build your look around neutrals, like black, which always looks rich, or navy, brown, gray or beige and use color sparingly—as a punctuation. Color makes you stand out, which is great when that’s your goal. (Review the first strategy.)
• Accessories: Don’t forget to treat your hair and makeup as fashion accessories. Aim for an integrated look from head to toe. For example, when you’re at a state dinner where you’re expected to speak with many people, don’t wear a coif that gets in the way, like long bangs that are constantly in your eyes. Do I have to tell you whom I’m referring to?

In closing, does anyone have Camilla’s email address?

Are you one of those people who puts off buying clothes—or even putting together great outfits—until you lose those ten pounds that have been plaguing you for, what seems like, forever? Or until you start an exercise routine? Or?

Whatever the reason, stop waiting and start dressing the body you have today. And dress it fabulously. We spend too much time waiting for whatever before we do things that will ultimately make us feel great. I know the power of a terrific, beautifully accessorized outfit. All you need are one or two of them, until you lose that weight or get fit or…you get the drift. In fact, a snappy outfit may even get you motivated to make changes.To get you started, I thought I’d share with you several of my styling secrets for dressing in the present. I count on them to make me feel wonderful–even though the scale is not my friend at this moment.

Dark bottoms—Black and dark brown pants or skirts are minimizing, so they, along with a pair of dark jeans, are my fashion foundations and I build my looks around them.

Lightweight tops—I try to keep my silhouette long and lean with sweaters, shirts and tees that don?t add bulk. Yesterday morning, I went to a business meeting wearing a body-grazing black turtleneck, a black skirt with stitched-down pleats in the front only so it minimized my stomach and hips, black opaque tights and black round-toe heels. I accessorized with silver jewelry and a zebra print handbag and felt really cool—and thin.

Unlined and/or unstructured jackets—These provide a businesslike look with no bulk when I have to wear a suit. I like my jackets contoured to provide shape and wear thin cotton or cashmere T-shirts or fitted blouses under them.

Fabrics with stretch—Almost everything I wear has give because it makes clothing more comfortable and better fitting.

Knockout accessories—These make all the difference so I tend to collect them. Amazing shoes are my weakness (especially in leopard or brocade) and add originality to a simple pullover and pants. Or I’ll add a marvelous tie-dyed and beaded shawl. Long strands of shiny black beads dress up a black sweater and pants and visually lengthen my body. A cluster of antique pins on a jacket lapel or shoulder is another unique touch as is a fur collar (real or fake), a lacy jabot, a sequined scarf worn as an ascot, a chunky turquoise necklace, a vintage purse and the list goes on.

Great hair and makeup—My hair and makeup are my most essential accessories. Every few months, I go to a nearby specialty store and have my favorite makeup artist change my look slightly. A new lipstick or eye shadow can do wonders. So can having my hair restyled or my color changed slightly.

Whether or not you live in a state where there is a change of seasons, deciding what to wear right now, as we move into fall, could be a concern. White shirts are a great solution. I love white shirts. They always look fresh and clean. They’re fashionable year round and there’s a style for every body and occasion.

Right now, I have my eye on a two white numbers: one with Edwardian styling and lace insets, and another with ruffles around the neckline. They soften a suit and really look both romantic and timely with a blazer and jeans. Then there’s the updated classic white shirt, which is also the most versatile. It resembles a men’s shirt but is shorter, contoured and, best, in stretch cotton. I also prefer French cuffs. I wear this silhouette under a suit jacket and fill in the neckline with several strands of short pearls, black beads or a vintage locket. Or I take a small scarf and tie it around my throat knotting the ends and tucking them into the neckline of the shirt (see my website for a photo). And I finish with my vintage cufflinks.

Sometimes I wear this shirt over a lace-edged white camisole, leaving the top four or five buttons open so that a little lace peeks out. Often, I’ll top the shirt-over-cami with a V-neck cardigan buttoned over a pleated skirt. I vary the look by knotting the shirt at my waist and leaving the cardigan open. In this case, I like long pearls or beads that cascade over the lace-rimmed camisole.

An oversized white cotton shirt is another favorite; it gives a man-tailored edge to jeans. Try layering one over a snug white tee, as I do, and buttoning just the bottom buttons. You can also wear it totally unbuttoned as if it was a jacket or even knot the ends at your hips.

For the Guys: I used to think that white shirts were really boring for men, but now I like them, especially when worn with a navy or gray suit and deep, jewel-toned or a whimsical patterned tie. I also think they look very hip over a white tee shirt and under a blazer with jeans. For a little variety, I recommend a white-on-white striped shirt, which offers textural interest.

As much as I love fashion and putting together outfits, there are some days when I don’t want to think about what I’ll wear. Rainy mornings when I have a business breakfast, sizzling hot evenings when I have a meeting and dog-day afternoons when the humidity is so high that I can hardly breathe are three of those instances. Another is when I’m feeling fat and have to look fantastic. I’m sure you can relate. Each of us has our own hot buttons. That’s why I find it helpful to create a couple of standbys-outfits I can rely on for these “special” occasions. I thought I’d pass them on to you, including the thinking behind them, so you could create your own automatic looks for certain repeat occasions.

Rainy Days-I like to wear something in a soft pretty shade to offset the gloomy weather. I have a pair of rubber boots in a Pucci pattern, shaded in peaches, pinks and beiges that are my base. Then I pair cropped beige or brown pants with either a cream silk shirt or a sleeveless peach top that’s in an interesting pleated/origami-like finish and top everything with a short, belted, beige nylon jacket, cut like a trench coat.

Sizzling Hot Evenings-There’s nothing like white to make you look cool and comfortable so that’s my uniform until Labor Day. It consists of a mid-calf gauzy white skirt with a white ribbed cotton tank top and sheer white cardigan. I accent this with gold sandals and a bold necklace that consists of a long strand of pearls, another of coral and a third of brass.

Dog-Day Afternoons-I like to be as bare as possible, yet still look put together and for that, my simple slip dress is perfect cause it simply skims my body. I top my floral slip dress with a featherweight cardigan and finish it with a pair of thong sandals.

Fat Days-Black. A black top and bottom makes me think I appear slimmer. My staples are a black swirly skirt with a dropped waist and a black tank that’s not very tight (with a cardigan wrapped around my waist) or black linen pants with a black tee or black stretch cotton, fitted shirt that’s meant to be worn with ends out, then black mules and interesting earrings (to put the focus on my face, rather than my hips).

As the weather changes, so will my standbys. As soon as I’ve figured out my fall looks, I’ll let you know.